Cod en cocotte: a delicious “Bistronomy” dish
The word itself is delicious in its etymology and connotations: cocotte is at once a casserole or Dutch oven, a prostitute, or, in parts of French Canada, a term of endearment … something like “sweetie” or “my hen.” My two-year-old grandson, here in the bilingual Ottawa Valley, refers to eggs as “cocos,” which I find very cute.
The inspiration for this dish is taken from a favourite cookbook of mine: Jane Sigal’s Bistronomy: recipes from the best new Paris bistros (Rizzoli, 2015). Sigal was the Stratford Chefs School Joseph Hoare Gastronomic Writer in Residence a few years ago.
The dish is Sigal’s re-imagining of a cod dish she enjoyed at La Rallonge (18e arrondissement): it exemplifies more rustic dishes that are perhaps a reaction to what she calls the “artfully composed plates” that have “virtually killed the casserole.” I agree: simplicity over fussiness and tweezers is always better, in my view.
It’s called “cod en cocotte with tomatoes, olives and chorizo:” La Rollange chef Marine Thomas’s creation was originally served in what Sigal calls “adorable” mini cast-iron pans — obviously leaning toward the “dear” connotation of the word cocotte — that unites cod and chorizo magnificently.
In Bistronomy, Sigal’s version builds the dish in a single, large casserole for family-style dining: it’s a great modification. However, to serve two people, I’ve re-worked the recipe back toward the La Rollange original and put it into two of those classic (if not kitschy) 1970s ceramic crockery bowls for the ultra-cheesy Soupe à l’Oignon Gratinée that I recall from my childhood (mom took some Cordon Bleu classes).
It’s a pretty simple dish to make: a couple of boiled potatoes, cooled then sliced; some chopped tomatoes; diced chorizo sausage; garlic; black olives (I used Kalamata); cod fillets; butter; thyme; olive oil and lemon juice.
The method is to basically as simple as layering the potatoes in the bottom of your casserole (whatever size and cuteness you prefer), add the tomatoes, olives, chorizo cubes and cod and top with butter pieces, thyme and some fresh lemon juice. Simmer on the stovetop for a bit, then bung the dishes into a 350F oven, cover and cook until the cod is cooked through, about 15 or 20 minutes or so.
Garnish with some freshly chopped parsley and some Maldon, add some hearty, crusty bread to the table along with a good slather of butter (and wine), and this makes an excellent warming dish that is indeed quite endearing.
I can easily see making it a couple of times this winter. And if you come across, pick up Sigal’s Bistronomy: it’s well worth dipping into and learning about Parisian bistro fare.
